WA: Bewitching Broome

WA 2022: Post 3 of 6 15 May 2022

Above image: low tide at Cable Beach

Instead of making my sock tan disappear, I have found a purpose for it… it is part of my uniform as an amateur twitcher (or bird watcher for those not down with the lingo). I am also now an amateur astronomer, palaeontologist and tide watcher. The sock tan adds to my legitimacy with all my new roles!

Leaving behind the stunning scenery of the Pilbara, my sock tan travelled alongside the +400km railway servicing the iron-ore mines, through long languid landscapes with sporadic cows, trees and hills to Port Hedland – the world’s largest bulk export port. We camped just north of Port Hedland at Pardoo Station – one of the huge cattle stations in Western Australia that provide accommodation alongside their usual farming business. We enjoyed a stunning sunset over the Indian Ocean with hermit crabs, kangaroos and cows to keep us company.

From there it was the super straight six hour drive to Broome and, given Aditi is relatively fresh to Australia and the cultural nuances, we filled the time with an analysis of the Australian-isms that she had recently encountered. This included the different finger salutes we use – both helpful and rude – and the very important steering wheel wave or ‘phatic finger’. I need to mention here that I am yet to meet a pothole on a paved road in Western Australia. Just saying NSW…

I love that every town has its quirks and sensibilities to adapt to its climate, history and residents. Despite an abundance of litter (which really does my head in), Broome is a loveable quirky town located on the lands of the Yawuru people. The Broome Museum is well worth a visit to understand how the community has been shaped by the pearling industry, tourism, world wars, the weather and politics, and brings together Aboriginal, Japanese, Malay, Chinese, British cultures and more.

The weather is so hot in these parts that while I was washing the car at about 9am, the heat coming off the car was drying the cloth in my hand as I wiped the car!! Needless to say, I swam every day in Broome and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Back to my new sock tan roles:

Twitcher: was formalised during a visit to the Broome Bird Observatory where the enthusiasm of the other twitchers was ridiculously infectious. Plus I saw loads of turtles swimming in the bay – which doesn’t have much to do with birds but was very cool and made me happy.

Astronomer: regularly camping under a night sky rampant and rich with stars ensures a passing interest in astronomy, which was enhanced by an Astro Tour. The ‘tour’ involved sitting outside under the stars with an astronomer who pointed things out in the sky with his big green pointer. It was pretty special, particularly the stuff about Aboriginal Astronomy – once you see the Emu in the Milky Way, you will always see it.

Palaeontologist: is a result of hunting for dinosaur footprints that can be seen right along the Broome coast. It requires expert skills in clambering over rocks, finding the other tourists who know where to look and using your imagination to “see” the dinosaur that belonged to the footprint. Highly enjoyable!

Tide Watcher: the tides in Broome are enormous – the difference between low and high tide can be around 10m. I know that is hard to understand, so think of it this way: I walk over the sand dunes to Cable Beach and put my towel down on the first bit of soft flat sand. At high tide, a swim involves 10 steps from my towel to the water. At low tide, from the same towel spot, it took me 3 mins to walk to the water’s edge! Amazing.

We now farewell the coast and head east to explore the Kimberley and its powerful panoramas and varied terrain, and find some crocodiles…