Image: Emma doing her best tree pixie impersonation in the forest at Roaring Billy Falls

12 February 2023

Post 4 of 4.

Coming from Australia, the whole South Island seems devoid of wildlife. The Lonely Planet says that because New Zealand separated from Gondwanaland before mammals appeared, New Zealand has evolved to be full of birds and unique and varied plants and invertebrates. Well I need to check their definition of “full” as we saw just three invertebrates in three weeks, and that was only because we were looking – fuzzy bees, ants and a spider. We did see native birds, pleasingly dead possums, a freshwater eel, Hector’s dolphins (the smallest dolphins in the world), a Sea Lion and oodles of furry rock sausages (seals) to satisfy our desire to see wildlife.

The forests are mostly silent besides the occasional bird call and the sound of our feet on the dense leaf litter covering the path. The green of the forest is intense with ferns lush, delicate and soft covering every surface – nature’s tinsel. So pretty.

During our tour of the Marlborough Sounds, we learnt that before settlement the bird population in the area was vast and concentrated. So much so, that in the 1770s Captain Cook was forced to meet with the local Maori people in boats in the middle of the water way so they could hear each other speak above the noise of the birds on the surrounding islands! Settlement brought people who had an aversion to trees, so most of the islands were cleared of vegetation. Today, the +40 islands are recovering with at least 6 islands that are bird and wildlife sanctuaries as part of New Zealand’s Predator Free 2050 plan.

We saw mass farming of sheep, cow and deer with farming land clearly identifiable by the hills stripped bare surrounded by flat dry paddocks. It is not very pretty. But did you know that New Zealand produces enough food to feed 40 million people! It exports most of that meaning the cost of living in New Zealand is high = NZ$20 for a kilo block of untasty cheese.

Water allocations aren’t really a thing, although water quality is becoming a thing with dairy effluent a significant concern. Most of New Zealand’s power comes from hydroelectricity and most of that is generated on the South Island which isn’t surprising when you see the size of the rivers flowing from the mountains. For example, the Waitaki River which is fed by 3 glacial lakes in the Southern Alps, has 3 hydroelectric dams and 9 powerhouses generating electricity for public and commercial use.

I could rave more about forestry and farming practices, the uneven distribution of wealth, and sandflies but that will annoy me and you. Instead, for those contemplating a trip to New Zealand you should do it. It is easy to travel as an adult or as a family. It is also easy to avoid traveling families. We booked a few tours in advance but no accommodation. We relied on the CamperMate App to point us in the direction of camping grounds with minimal sand flies, good swimming opportunities, a view and the occasional hot shower. Mobile phone coverage is good in the populated areas, similar to Australia.

To sign off, my favourite names of the trip: Cape Foulwind, Ewe Burn and Tinkle Creek. Clever Emma invented a new term for a tunnel – a road cave. And then I arrived home and tested positive to Covid. Blah.